Of all New Zealand's cruising grounds, the Bay of Islands is probably the finest - endless sheltered bays, clear, clean water and a climate that is consistently warmer than anywhere else in the country. Ferries and all manner of excursion boats ply across and around it and there are boats everywhere.
Sail power ruled in the new colonies and when New Zealand was first colonised ship’s masters had a lot of say in where the original settlements were built. It is therefore entirely reasonable to expect that sailing in and out of the site of New Zealand’s first capital should be as easy as pie, and it takes only the faintest sprinkle of salt in your veins to see why Russell was made the nation’s first capital.
Tucked neatly in behind a sheltering peninsula, Russell’s steeply shelving pebble beach keeps sailor’s feet, and hence ship’s decks, conveniently free of sand. Deep, glutinous, mud lies just beyond the two fathom line, swallowing anchors and winch handles alike, while the prevailing offshore breeze allows even the most cautious watch keeper a few hours ashore.
Today the wonderful Russell wharf is the centre of town, and the parade of charter yachts, ferries, gamefishers and private vessels that come and go makes it a great place for casting an eye over some of the boats. All the essential boatie facilities – scuba fills, laundromat, butcher, pubs and so on are within easy reach, and the town is mercifully free of motor vehicles, with regular ferries to Paihia providing connections to buses and the world at large.
The legendary Bay of Islands Swordfish Club, author Zane Grey's favourite hangout back in the thirties, has a splendid verandah that overlooks the wharf. Entry to this venerable institution is restricted to members and their guests, but judicious pestering of Graeme MacIntosh, skipper of Mako and a prominent club functionary, might get you an invitation. Alternatively, if Hot Rod happens to be tied at the wharf, offer to buy Roy Harrington a drink and let him suggest the venue. The interior is gloriously festooned with numerous pieces of dead fish, several tons of silverware and the names and deeds of countless heroic fisherpersons.